Le Sens du Détail puts jewelry designers in the spotlight! Recently, I was lucky to work with Frederique Berman and today, she is sharing with us some insights of her personal inspiring environment. A dreamlike realm that reflects her elegant talent and delicate findings, always full of humor and personality.

Becoming a jewelry designer: a vocation or career evolution?

Love the word choice! Since childhood, my primary leanings have always been towards drawing and designing. However, I started my career as an Art Historian, working both as an Antique dealer and Art merchant. Pivoting to my current position of independent Jewelry designer was a sort of natural evolution, going back to my roots too. I am blessed with a rich inspirational background, with arts, architecture, fashion and jewelry history, civilization humanities and philosophy – all those inspiring topics, combined to my innate love of nature and sea lead to some light sketching first, only to become precious jewels later.

Let’s spend a typical workday together. How is it like?

As I work alone, my work schedule is super flexible and very busy altogether. Every day, I box in some essential administrative tasks. I also need to feed, catch up and follow up social networks because an ongoing presence and communication is key to my online presence. Once or twice a week, I will stop by the workshop to monitor and oversee the pieces being produced, I also pick up some orders that are ready for delivery and eventually place new ones. It is always great to talk and chat with the craftsmen about exciting new projects! I often pay visits to my gemstones suppliers, per my needs: I love sitting with them, being awed by precious gems carefully retrieved from their safes, I love to let my mind wander … To finally regain focus on a new marvelous finding. Those are exciting moments, full of wonder and learnings: one never stops to learn about gemstones! Meeting my clients is a moment I particularly cherish: I like listening to them and reviewing their requests so that I can envisage projects with them, trying my best to step in their shoes and sketch their personal environment accurately. This intimate task digs into their privacy, putting sensitivity and empathy forward and leads to building solid bonds between us. Later comes the exquisite moment of drawing. It takes a quiet, extended period of time, grey and graph paper, my pencils plus the gemstones laying before me. There starts the moment when my imaginative spirit has to bend and adjust with technical demands or constraints. Creativity also needs to be sculpted according to my client’s wishes. I also happen to sketch jewel pieces aside of all purchase, some pieces only reflect my inspiration and embody my visions.

Which designers / brands / pieces do you get your inspiration / creativity from?

My creative world is deeply marked by ancient jewelry pieces. I am a keen amateur of Antique Greek and Etruscan jewels, Byzantine or Medieval goldsmith pieces, sumptuous Renaissance and later designs. This fondness extends to the remarkable and inspiring Art Nouveau ornaments and Art Déco ensembles. I also keep in mind the chic and glamour flair of the 1950s to 1970s. Among current designers, I have a huge admiration for JAR’s work, unapologetically claim and assume my fondness for James Taffin, his creativity and twisted humor. I also nourish a genuine passion for precious and elegant pieces by Viren Baghat: those three designers are on top on my personal bucket list. Within the young guns and rising stars, I am a big fan of Fernando Jorge, Nikos Koulis, Nadine Ghosn, Selim Mouzannar, Nadia Morgenthaler, Irene Neuwirth...

Can I find a mascot, a favorite juju on your desk?

A photograph of my grandmother Suzanne sits on my desk. Her influence was crucial in my vocation and global culture. I also placed a small statue of a bear as “Berman” literaly means “Bear-man” and there is also an adorable Murano glass octopus. These three objects are a connecting anchor to my past, but they are also a symbol of my love of art and my bond to nature.

How about your favorite piece among your latest designs or findings?

My heart goes to “Longmen”, a carp caught in a spring motion. It is made of blue titanium, diamonds and fine pearls. This perfect embodiment of courage and resilience in the Chinese culture is also a flagship of my work at its best: free lines and curves, precious design and stones combined to titanium, bond with natural environment and substantial symbolic value.

What are your projects for 2021-2022?

Full steam on developing my communication, hence expanding my visibility. I am also focusing my efforts on growing a distribution network for my pieces, both locally and internationally. Just like everybody else, I am also anxiously waiting for the grand reopening of fairs and trade shows. Due to circumstances, 2020 skipped and cancelled many of them, among which Jewels Basel, Gem Geneva, Hong Kong on top of all local events and fairs. Although we are all aware that “things will have changed”, I am confident that we can recover and pave our ways towards an efficient business pace. That is where I put my energy right now.

The creators mentioned in the article :

• Frédérique Berman : https://frederiqueberman.com/fr/
• Fernando Jorge : https://www.fernandojorge.co.uk/
• Nikos Koulis : https://www.nikoskoulis.gr/
• Nadine Ghosn : https://nadineghosn.com/
• Selim Mouzannar : https://www.selimmouzannar.com/
• Nadia Morgenthaler : https://nadia-morgenthaler.com/
• Irene Neuwirth : https://ireneneuwirth.com/
• James Taffin : https://www.taffin.com/
• Viren Baghat : http://www.bhagatjewellers.com